Is laser safe on dark skin?

If you have brown or dark skin and you've been told laser isn't for you, you weren't given bad advice. For a long time it was broadly true, and for several devices still in use it remains true today.

But it isn't true of every laser, and the reason comes down to one thing: wavelength. The Aerolase Neo Elite uses a 1064 nm Nd:YAG wavelength that is designed and validated for all six Fitzpatrick skin types, including IV, V and VI. Below is what that actually means, why other lasers carry more risk on melanin-rich skin, and the limits worth knowing before you book anything.

Why some lasers are risky on darker skin

Every laser works by being absorbed by something - pigment, blood, water. The problem on melanin-rich skin is that the melanin in your epidermis, the surface layer, competes for that energy with whatever the laser is actually meant to treat.

The more melanin at the surface, the more laser energy is absorbed before it reaches the target. That surface energy becomes heat where you don't want it. And skin with more melanin has a well-documented tendency to respond to injury by producing more pigment - post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or PIH. Which is how a treatment meant to fade dark patches can leave them darker.

This isn't a reason to avoid laser. It's a reason to be specific about which one.

What the 1064 nm wavelength changes

Melanin absorbs less energy as wavelength gets longer. At 1064 nm - the longest wavelength in common aesthetic use - absorption by surface melanin is substantially lower than at the shorter wavelengths used by alexandrite (755 nm) or many IPL devices.

In practice the energy passes through the epidermis with comparatively little interference and reaches its target below. The surface is not where the work happens, which is the whole point.

And what the 650-microsecond pulse changes

Wavelength is only half of it. The Neo Elite delivers its energy in a pulse lasting 650 microseconds - shorter than the thermal relaxation time of the surrounding skin, meaning the energy arrives and the target absorbs it before heat has time to spread into neighbouring tissue.

That matters for melanin-rich skin specifically. Heat that lingers in the epidermis is what provokes the pigment response. A pulse short enough to avoid building that heat is designed to avoid provoking it. It's also why treatment needs no contact cooling, no gel and no numbing - there's little surface heat to manage.

What we treat with it on skin of colour

• Hyperpigmentation and uneven tone - including post-inflammatory marks left by acne or irritation.

• Melasma, which is common in Fitzpatrick III-V skin and notoriously difficult to treat safely with other devices.

• Acne, active and inflammatory, along with the marks it leaves.

• Rosacea, facial redness and visible vessels.

• Laser hair reduction, including pseudofolliculitis barbae - the ingrown hairs and razor bumps that disproportionately affect coarse or curly hair.

• Skin texture and fine lines, through collagen stimulation over a series.

Treatments are contactless, take roughly 10-20 minutes depending on the area, and most people return to their day straight afterward.

What we'd want you to know before booking

No laser is risk-free on any skin tone, and anyone who tells you otherwise is selling rather than advising. What follows is what we'd say to you in the room.

• Your skin gets assessed before anything is treated. Skin type, your history with pigmentation, what you've had done before, and what you're using on your skin now all change the plan. This is what the complimentary consultation is for.

• Recent sun exposure or a tan raises the risk for anyone, at any skin tone. We'll ask you to avoid sun and tanning beds in the weeks before a session.

• Some medications make skin more light-sensitive. Bring a full list, including supplements.

• Melasma is managed, not cured. It is a chronic, relapsing condition. It responds, and it comes back - daily SPF and a maintenance plan are part of the treatment, not an afterthought.

• Pigment results are gradual and usually need a series. Anyone promising one session is describing a different outcome than the one you want.

• For hair reduction: grey, white and very fine blonde hair responds poorly. The laser targets pigment in the hair, and unpigmented hair gives it nothing to work with. We'd rather tell you that now than after you've paid for a plan.

• Individual results vary, and nothing here is a guarantee of outcome.

Where and who

Treatments are carried out at One Aesthetics in College Park, Orlando, by our licensed medical providers, with clinical standards overseen by our medical director, Dr. Diana Lambie, DO, a plastic surgeon.

If you'd prefer your consultation and treatment in Spanish, Dania and Luis both perform Aerolase treatments and both speak Spanish - just let us know when you get in touch.

The consultation is complimentary and private. We'll look at your skin, tell you honestly whether this is the right tool for what's bothering you, and give you a plan in writing. If it isn't the right tool, we'll say so.

Common questions

Is the Aerolase Neo Elite safe for Fitzpatrick V and VI skin?

It is designed and validated for all six Fitzpatrick skin types, including V and VI. Its 1064 nm wavelength is absorbed less by surface melanin than the shorter wavelengths used by many other devices, and its 650-microsecond pulse is designed to avoid the heat build-up that can provoke pigment changes. Your provider still assesses your skin individually before treating.

Can laser make hyperpigmentation worse?

With some devices, yes - that is the central risk on melanin-rich skin, and it's called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It happens when a laser deposits heat in the surface layer and the skin responds by producing more pigment. The Neo Elite's wavelength and pulse duration are both chosen to reduce that risk, which is why it is widely used on skin of colour.

How many sessions will I need?

It depends entirely on what's being treated. Pigment and acne usually need a series spaced a few weeks apart, with gradual improvement between sessions. Hair reduction needs more, because hair grows in cycles and only actively growing hair responds. We'll give you a specific number at your consultation rather than a generic one here.

Does it hurt?

Most people describe it as a warm snapping sensation. Nothing touches your skin, and no numbing cream, cooling gel or cryogen spray is needed, because the pulse is too short to build up surface heat.

Is there downtime?

Typically none. You may have mild redness that settles within a few hours, and you can usually wear makeup and return to your day straight away.

Can I have it if I've recently been in the sun?

We'd ask you to wait. Recent sun exposure or a tan increases risk at any skin tone, so we'll plan your sessions around it rather than treat freshly tanned skin.

Finding out whether it's right for you

If you've been turned away before, or you've had a result that set your pigmentation back, it's worth having your skin looked at by someone using a device built for it.

The consultation is free, private and carries no obligation. Call (321) 972-3686, text (407) 782-8775, or visit us at 649 Vassar St, College Park, Orlando.

One Aesthetics is a provider of the Aerolase Neo Elite. This article is general information, not medical advice. Individual results vary and are not guaranteed.